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Tallegio
This cheese is also known as “Stracchino” because cheese making was traditionally started after the cows’ descent from high mountain pastures. “Stracche” means tired in the local dialect. This cheese was first made in the Val Tallegio in the 10th and 11th centuries and is currently made in the Lombardy, Veneto and Piedmont regions of Italy. The name Tallegio has been in use since the 20th century. The traditional cheese has always been aged in mountain caves. Deep fractures in the rocks of the caves create a cool and humid microclimate favoring the growth of specific microflora on the surface. The traditional cheese is made from raw milk. It has a thin, soft, slightly crumpled skin with a soft reddish color and patches of gray mold scattered across the surface. It ripens from the outside towards the center mostly due to the action of yeasts and bacteria on the surface. It has a velvety soft texture and yellow color near the rind and dense, white, firmer and chalky texture near the center. The taste is delicate with a hint of acid in he middle. Ideas for this recipe came from a presentation by Giuseppe Licitra at the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese and Cheese: A Guide to the World of Cheese and Cheesemaking by Bruno Battistotti and Italian Cheese by Slow Food Editore. Although traditionally-made Tallegio is usually aged for no more than 40 days, it may be possible to make this cheese from raw milk and age it for 60 days and still have a good window to sell it in. Washed rind cheeses are relatively stable as long as they are kept cold and packaged in sulfur-coated breathable paper. Starter cultures are not used in the traditional making of Tallegio and cheese is made after every milking. For 100 lb. (12 gallons) milk: Raw milk in small cheese vats (up to 200 liter) at 89-95° F. No starter
is used for fresh milk direct from milking. For older, stored milk starter
culture is added: After 30 min. add 9 ml single strength rennet. Cut the curd into 2-3 inch pieces. After 5 min. cut the curds again into
hazel nut sized pieces. Settle under whey 5 min. Remove whey from surface
of curds. Stir curds and whey briefly and gently transfer curds and whey
using scoop or pitcher to the open-ended forms sitting on drain matting.
At the end of hoping, turn cheeses in the forms. Do this at least 2 more
times, 1 hour apart. Rub cheeses with coarse flake dry salt. Move cheeses to aging room the next day. Affinage:
Peter
Dixon, Dairy Foods Consulting
131 West Parish Road Westminster West, VT 05346 phone/fax: 802.387.4041 dixonpeter@mac.com |
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