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Provolone and Caciocavallo Provolone is a pasta filata type cheese usually made in a salami or log shape. It is made in other forms such as very large tear drops or gourds. When it is made in the shape of a pear with a knob on top it is called Caciocavallo, which translates into, “cheese on a horse.” . There are many kinds and sizes of Caciocavallo cheeses made in Italy. The Sicillian version is called Ragusano and is made in the shape of a curbstone, which weighs 22-35 pounds. When these are stuffed with butter they are called Burino or Manteca. All of these cheeses can be made from raw milk and aged for a minimum of 60 days or longer. For 100 lb. (12 gallons) milk: Ripen milk for 1-1.5 hours to pH 6.50-6.60 Add 9 ml single strength rennet for cow and goat milk and 7 ml for sheep milk for 100 lb. Check for flocculation, which is the first sign of milk gelling into curd (should be 12-15 minutes), and multiply this times 3 to get the time to wait from adding rennet to cutting the curd, e.g., 12 min. x 3 = 36 min.. Begin heating, while stirring the curds and whey, steadily to 95-98° F in 15 minutes (1°F every 3 minutes) . Settle the curds under the whey for 15-30 minutes. At pH 6.10-6.20 pull curds to the back of the vat and drain off the whey. Gather the curds into a firm pack by the end of draining, then slice into slabs. After 15 minutes pile the slabs on top of each other to keep them warm. Wait until until the acidity increases to pH 5.20-5.30 so that they are ready to stretch into shapes. Stretch curd in 170° F water until smooth and shiny and mold the curd into the desired shape(s). After molding the cheeses, put them in cold water to firm up before brining. Alternative Recipe for Traditional Caciocavallo and Kashkaval For 100 lb. milk: Add 2-8 grams (0.5-2 tsp.) lipase powder depending on level of picante flavor (0.5 tsp should be enough) Add 9 ml single strength rennet for 100 lb. cow and goat milk and 7 ml for 100 lb. sheep milk. Check for flocculation, which is the first sign of milk gelling into curd (should be 12-15 minutes), and multiply this times 4 to get the time to wait from adding rennet to cutting the curd, e.g., 15 min. x 4 = 60 min.. Begin heating, while stirring the curds and whey, steadily to 95-98 °F in 15 minutes ( 1 °F every 3 minutes). Settle the curds under the whey for 5-10 minutes. Rake curds to the back of the vat and drain off the whey. Keep the curds in a pack, then slice into cakes and place in basket forms. Make Ricotta cheese from the whey. Place the baskets of curd in the vat and pour in the hot whey from Ricotta making so that the curd is covered. Let sit for 2 hours until curd is pH 5.60-5.70. Drain off the whey and let the curd sit in the baskets or wrapped in cheesecloth overnight in a cool room. If it is warm in the cheese room the curd can be moved to the cooler overnight to prevent over acidification. The next morning the curd should be ready to stretch into shapes. Follow the procedure in the previous recipe for stretching and molding the curds into shapes. Cut the curd cakes into thin strips, place in hot water and, after a few minutes begin pushing the curds together. The water should be 165-170 F. In the Balkans, Kashkaval is made from sheep milk. Because of the higher fat content of the curd the stretch water may need to be even hotter than this. When the curds are sticking together, roll them and gently knead them together to form a homogeneous mass. Sprinkle in a small amount of salt as you are doing this. When the surface is smooth and shiny, transfer the curd to a form. After molding, the hot curd is placed into a form and pinched off so as to leave no openings. For Kashkaval, holes are are made in the top of the curd so that air is released. Kashkaval is typically made in a 12 lb. wheel. Caciocavallo cheeses are usually molded into teardrop, bell, pear and gourd shapes; Ragusano (a form of Caciocavallo from Sicily is made in a 30 lb. rectangular shape the size of a curbstone). Caciocavallo cheeses are chilled in cold water to hold their shape. The Ragusano and Kashkaval curd rests in a form and is turned 3 or 4 times during the afternoon and remains in the room until the following day. Caciocavallo and Ragusano cheeses are brined in a 20-24 % salt (saturated) brine at the rate of 4 hours per pound. Kashkaval is dry salted over a period of 20 days in a 57-60 F room in the following manner: Wheels are salted on both sides and placed on wooden shelves After 2 days the wheels are wiped dry and salted again and stacked one on top of another. The process is repeated. The process is repeated but the wheels are stacked 3 high during the next 4 days Repeat the process but stack 4 high Repeat the process but stack 5 high The stacks of wheels are left 5 high for 20 more days without additional salting The wheels are now taken from the stacks and cleaned and stacked again This is repeated every week until the aging is complete The cheese is aged for at least five months with a natural rind in a cool environment: 57-60 °F with 80-85% RH.
The Caciocavallo cheeses are cleaned periodically and can be rubbed with olive oil. These cheeses are usually hung from cords in the aging room. Some cheesemakers wait until it is time to sell the cheese before cleaning them, in which case they can be very moldy. The mold is scrubbed off with a fairly stiff brush while the cheeses are held under a cold water tap. |
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